**Mexican Food, LA Style: From Tacos to Seafood Feasts**

In this article:

Al and Bea’s
Sonoratown
Holbox

Los Angeles is a culinary mecca for Mexican food in the United States (yay for diversity and deliciousness). Whenever I travel domestically, I avoid eating any Latin American food anywhere other than SoCal, Florida and Texas! Does that make me a snob? I don’t know; all I know is that my standards for yummy Mexican food have gone up since living in LA. :D

It’s easy to see why: Los Angeles County has over 5,000 Mexican restaurants, the highest concentration in the country. California is home to 30% of all Mexican eateries in the United States; so yes, it’s the nation's leader in Mexican cuisine. With that knowledge, it’s safe to say that Mexican culture (aka food) is deeply woven into the city’s food and identity.

Aside from the sheer quantity of restaurants, LA has breadth covering regional Mexican cuisines like traditional Oaxacan mole (like at Guelaguetza), to creative Californian fusion like the Korean BBQ tacos made famous by Kogi BBQ and Taqueria. I always find what I’m craving. For meat eaters, there are hearty Michoacán carnitas; and for pescaterians, Jalisco-style shrimp tacos, with avocado and tomato sauce (I‘m drooling).

I’m all about those beloved neighborhood staples. From savoring a taco outside a street-side, pop-up food tent (with those incredibly bright lights!), or biting into the humble bean and cheese burrito at Al & Bea’s (take me back to the 60s), I always find incredible diversity and flavor.

I like to think Los Angelenos have a distinctive palette, where the more regional the specialty, the more excited we are to eat it. Thus, by simply eating Mexican food, it’s satisfying both the hunger and thirst to experience the essence of LA city itself —seeped in history, authenticity, and unforgettable tastes. Yum indeed!

So let’s dive in and savor some local flavors:

Local Staple Al & Bea’s for Classic, Yummy Mexican Food

*Waiting for my food at Al & Bea’s | Image by Linhda Tran*

Established in 1944, Al & Bea’s in Boyle Heights is a Los Angeles time capsule for affordable, Mexican comfort food. On a weekend lunchtime, the wait was long-ish so don’t be in a hurry or be sure to avoid peak hours. The chefs were cooking non-stop; so I know they work hard!

The homemade flour tortillas are soft, slightly chewy, and the perfect base for classic, yet satisfying burritos. The beans, slow-cooked in lard, add depth —like something a grandma would make (if only my grandma did cook!).

The bean and cheese burrito? I want to order more and freeze them for later; how can I capture this flavor? It’s small but mighty and drips down your arm as you gobble it down. Messy and worth it. Sometimes, the messiest meals are the best—and this one proves it.

The cozy, open-air seating ties it all together. Oldies on the speakers fit the casual, retro feel. My burrito practically exploded when I unwrapped it, but instead of being annoyed, I grabbed a fork and dug in.

*The “inside” of Al & Bea’s Mexican in Boyle Heights | Image by Linhda Tran*

*The pick-up window at Al & Bea’s Mexican in Boyle Heights | Image by Linhda Tran*

*Viola, the bean and cheese burrito from Al & Bea’s Mexican Food | Image by Linhda Tran*

*Menu at Al & Bea’s Mexican Food | Image by Linhda Tran*

*Menu (continued)at Al & Bea’s Mexican Food | Image by Linhda Tran*

*Picnic style seating and eating at Al & Bea’s Mexican Food | Image by Linhda Tran*

Where Tacos Are Pure Joy: Sonoratown

*Burritos at Sonoratown / Image by Linh Da Tran*

*Cute branded napkin dispenser at Sonoratown / Image by Linh Da Tran*

Sonoratown is one of the best taco spots in Los Angeles—I know this because I keep going back. I find myself returning at night, after work, with friends, when I’m tired, when I’m getting a craving when I don’t know what to eat; I find myself back despite the rushhour traffic. The food is simply delicious, and the price port just-right. You can smell the smoky charcoal-grilled meats when you open the double glass doors. This place is a taco lover's dream. Tacos were fatty, I believe made with lard — warm, fluffy, and addictive. I’m usually low carb, but for Sonoratown, the tortillas make the meal.

*Sonoratown Menu | Image by Linhda Tran*

*Love those yellow checkered floor tiles / Image by Linhda Tran*

For my meat eaters, the steak tacos are life-changing—tender, smoky beef with bright red salsa and guacamole. My taco arrived with a nice touch, a cebollitas (grilled onion); which I consumed thinking, I just ate my greens! The bean and cheese burrito, made with frijoles de olla, is another flavorful standout; one I’ll be ordering to-go (heats up well in the air fryer). Careful of the salsa, one of them was extra spicy (bring your yogurt or milk to counteract the spice if you’re sensitive); but I love the turn and sweating (cleared my sinuses). I saw other eats brought their dogs and ate outside,

Sonoratown is perfect for solidly incredible Mexican food in a casual setting; there’s no excuse not to go. It’s just right.

*Bright, colorful interiors at Sonoratown Mid-City / Image by Linh Da Tran*

Los Angeles Factoids: Did you know?

Sonoratown was historically Chinatown! In the mid-1800s, a large population from the Mexican state of Sonora lived in Sonoratown. There’s quite a bit of history in the Sonoratown wiki page. A 1914 guidebook, called out Los Angeles Sonoratown as being known for its Adobe-style homes. It was quite a lively place, as it was also the site of one of the first marijuana drug raids (way before it was legalized!). Back then, these marijuana gardens were called “dream gardens”, and the authorities confiscated two wagon loads (whew!).

Nowandays, I know Sonoratown as the fast-casual, LA Mexican restaurant with three locations (Downtown, Mid-City, and Long Beach). The restaurant was started in 2016 by Teodoro Diaz-Rodriguez, Jr. and Jennifer Felthamz; who have a combined 27+ years in the food industry.

According to their website, the Sonoratown is inspired from their roots in San Luis Río Colorado, Sonora, which is known for their flavorful carne asada, cooked over mesquite wood fire, and its scrumptious handmade flour tortillas.

Sonoratown first started as a small Downtown LA window in 2016, in the industrial Fashion District, and garnered high praise from Eater, LA Times, and LA Magazine. From there, they opened a larger Mid-City location in 2022, which has a bar, outdoor seating and a parking lot. And that my friend, is where I typically go to meet friends and when I am craving delicious tortillas with simple, fresh ingredients.

Today, Sonoratown consistently appears on the best tacos and burritos of LA, defining LA Mexican food!

They cook on a charcoal fire grill.

Sonoratown Mid-City 5610 San Vicente Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90019

*Sonoratown Mid-City Menu | Image by Linhda Tran*

Savoring the Sea— Holbox, Still an LA Must-Try

I feel like Holbox, needs no introduction as it was one of LA Time’s 2023 restaurant of the year, and featured in the Michelin Guide for several years now.

I will say…In 2019, after years of living in nearby South Los Angeles, I finally visited Mercado La Paloma—the Mexican food hall which houses Holbox—and was stunned that this Mexican food paradise had flown under my radar for so long! And from there, Holbox slowly started exploding as word got out. To my memory, their stall used to be significantly smaller and the menu more limited; but as they became busier and more popular, they expanded their menu, and grew to take up the entire corner!

*My favorite, the Smoked Kanpachi Taco (smoked fish, queso chihuahua, salsa cruda, avocado & peanut chili oil) / Image by Linhda Tran*

*Counter service at Holbox / Image by Linhda Tran*

Holbox blends coastal Mexican flavors with SoCal ingredients. First words that come to mind are fresh seafood, corn tortillas and bold house-made salsas (be sure to try them all, it’s like a salsa tasting menu). Chef Gilberto Cetina—honed his craft at neighboring Chichen Itza (so feel free to eat there if the Holbox line is too long for your taste). Be ready for a line for the counter-service, casual eatering; but I’m told there’s a fancier 8-course tasting menu twice a week for dinner (two seatings). At the time of this post, no tables were available; however, reservations are released monthly at the first of the month so be vigilant!

Holbox in the Mercado La Paloma, 3655 S Grand Ave #C9, Los Angeles, CA 90007

About Linhda

Linhda thrives on being a tourist in her own city, generously sharing over 10 years of Los Angeles knowledge with fellow enthusiasts!

An enthusiastic bike-to-work cyclist, also known as a commuter, Linhda has recently embraced the world of roller skating. If you have any questions about LA, drop her a line, or simply say HELLO! Meeting new people brings her immense joy. Cheers! linhdy@outlook.com

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